The most traditional bloco (street carnival group) in São Paulo celebrates its 70th anniversary in the streets of Bixiga.

Elaine Patrícia Cruz - Reporter for Agência Brasil

The oldest bloco in the city of São Paulo celebrates its 70th anniversary this Monday (27). And to celebrate the date, the Esfarrapados group once again took to the streets of Bixiga, a neighborhood with a large concentration of Italian immigrants in the city center. With their marching songs and under a lot of sun, the bloco brought together many children and also the oldest residents of the neighborhood, who helped create Esfarrapados.

The group emerged during the 1947 carnival and was founded by friends Armandinho Puglisi, Walter Taverna, Tinin, Capuno, and Carabina. A poster spread throughout the neighborhood tells a bit of the group's history: "Each one provided an outfit and, with a handful of empty cans and pots, went drumming through the streets of the neighborhood."

"The bloco was founded like this: for you to bring your costume, whatever it may be, and come have fun. This magic has been spreading," said the bloco's leader, Gleison Pego, known as Mineiro. "It's about bringing your costume and bringing your joy to the bloco," he added.

To celebrate the date, the board managed to bring an old streetcar that used to pass through the area to the streets – and which was photographed extensively by revelers today. The streetcar will circulate through the neighborhood along with the bloco (carnival group). “The streetcar is a reference to the form of transportation that São Paulo had until the 60s, and the Bela Vista neighborhood [as Bixiga is also called] had the Bela Vista streetcar that circulated through the streets. We searched and found an authentic replica in the colors and shape of the streetcar to bring back memories not only for those who had already seen and used it, but also for the newcomers, to see what Bixiga was like back then,” said Maurizio Bianchi, president of the bloco.

Tinin, 81, one of the group's founders, but who prefers to say he's only been a member of the bloco (carnival group) for 70 years, was moved by this year's festivities. “I was watching and there were over 100 children playing. I called the parents over and said, 'Do you know who these children are to us? They are the future of the Esfarrapados bloco.' They are the ones who will continue our tradition,” he said. Tinin also got emotional seeing the tram parked on Conselheiro Carrão street, next to the bloco, and remembered the times when he would go into the carriage to flirt. “We would go to the back of the carriage and, when the lights went out, we would give each other little kisses,” he recounted.

70 years of carnival

According to Bianchi, in these 70 years, the bloco (carnival group) has never stopped taking to the streets. "Despite all the difficulties and situations – and the bloco has gone through some very difficult periods – it has managed to survive, to recover, and we are keeping it going."

Journalist Luiz Espanha, 58, is a regular at the Esfarrapados bloco. “I’ve been participating in this bloco since the early 80s. It’s one of the best in São Paulo and the country. In fact, São Paulo’s carnival arrived and exploded, and nobody can stop it now,” he stated. “It [the bloco] plays carnival music, has a great atmosphere, is safe and joyful. And carnival is joy,” said the journalist, who also attended other blocos in the capital and complained about the lack of organization in some of them. “They’re putting large blocos on very narrow streets. When you squeeze people together in a mix of joy and culture, you provoke violence. There was a lack of organization. Large blocos need more space.”

A resident of the neighborhood, housewife Rosa Santos, 41, brought her 7-year-old daughter Elen to enjoy the street party. "She likes Carnival and these street parties." Rosa also said she took her daughter to enjoy other street parties in the area. "For those who like it, it's really great. And she likes it a lot, she jumps around a lot."

Street Carnival

The penultimate day of Carnival in São Paulo will feature performances by 31 street bands. Singer Elza Soares and the band Bixiga 70 will close out Monday's program at Largo da Batata, in the western part of the city.